My mother, 72 years old, refers to her cigarettes as her 'smokes.' And a cigarette is certainly easily countable.

However, if you were watching the smoke rise from many smokestacks, say at some sort of factory with many outlets, you'd say something like, "Look at the smoke rising today over there..." Or perhaps, "Look at all the smoke rising today..." But you wouldn't say, "Look at all the smokes rising." :)