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Is this a Quote:
crinoline noun 1 historical a stiffened or hooped petticoat worn to make a long skirt stand out. 2 a stiff fabric made of horsehair and cotton or linen thread, typically used for stiffening petticoats or as a lining. ORIGIN mid 19th cent. (originally in sense 2 , early crinolines being made of such material): from French, formed irregularly from Latin crinis ‘hair’ + linum ‘thread.’
or a
Quote:
farthingale noun historical a hooped petticoat or circular pad of fabric around the hips, formerly worn under women's skirts to extend and shape them. ORIGIN early 16th cent.(formerly also as vardingale): from French verdugale, alteration of Spanish verdugado, from verdugo ‘rod, stick,’ from verde ‘green.’
?
And just when I was beginning to get over the whole phylactery/tefillin situation.
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good question. a quick google doesn't necessarily clear up the confusion, but wikipedia seems to be a good resource, in this case: Crinolinesee the link to farthingale from there. this is also informative, but we don't if they're telling the truth either...... crinoline, two
formerly known as etaoin...
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Man, that is one funky birdcage. Wherever did you get it?
Removed a wrong comment!
Last edited by TEd Remington; 12/13/05 12:27 PM.
TEd
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Perhaps this will help clear up things a little: From modehistorique.com Farthingale: Current opinion among most costumers is that there are three types of farthingales: The Spanish (cone) Farthingale, the French (pad) Farthingale and the Wheel (Drum) Farthingale. These three styles of undergarment are distinct in construction as well as silhouette. Sometimes the wheel and French farthingales are confused to to mean a drum shaped farthingale supported by large pads. The purpose of this paper is to clear up some of the confusion and debate over what constitutes a farthingale vs. a "bumroll" and how we might revise conventional "wisdom" to distinguish how each garment was worn. "Farthingale: Single hoop mounted on a circular piece of material or fastened at waist by tapes. Also, hair-stuffed cushion worn around waist, under the skirt, to extend the skirt." (A Dictionary of Costume & Fashion Historic & Modern, 178) And, according to fashion-era.com In the 1830s a linen material woven with horsehair called crinoline was first used for cloth petticoats. The word crinoline comes from the French for 'crin' and 'lin', meaning horsehair and linen respectively. This version of a petticoat was the original crinoline and later the name continued in use incorrectly, but universally for the caged or hooped underskirt frames. Italics mine for emphasisPerhaps much of the confusion stems from the Victorians stealing from the Elizabethans, tweaking it slightly, calling it by a different name and proclaiming it a "new fashion"! That sounds most realistic. [sitting here whistling "Everything Old Is New Again"-e]
Last edited by consuelo; 12/13/05 02:06 PM.
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>>birdcage
Damit, Ted, you beat me to it!
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TEd
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Based on your link, Connie, I think HL's link shows neither a farthingale nor a crinoline, but the hoop that was used with a farthingale:
"The Spanish Farthingale: The very first farthingale that is depicted in art was essentially a brocade gown, borne out by hoops of reed, painted by Pedro Garcia de Benabarre, a late-15th century Spanish artist. This style was relatively short lived and didn't seem to exist outside of certain regions of Spain. By about 1495, the hoops moved beneath the outermost skirt but the farthingale was still far from widespread."
I've always though a Farthingale did not extend to the floor, but rather was worn around the waist to prop the top, or hip area, of the skirt.
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from the crinoline wikipedia link: Quote:
The History of the Crinoline
The crinoline was not the first accessory designed to support the wearer's skirts in the correct shape; the farthingale was worn in the seventeenth century and panniers in the eighteenth century. However, these very formal and elaborate styles were only worn at royal courts and in the highest levels of society.
After the French Revolution, French fashion turned against the elaborate styles favoured by royalty, the court, and the aristocracy. As Parisian fashion was very influential, most western European countries adopted the same styles.
Under the prevailing neoclassical influence, women’s fashions had adopted a simple style based on the simple draped garments of Ancient Greece and the togas of ancient Rome. Skirts were straight and slender, and worn with very few — if any — petticoats.
However, the silhouette did not remain that way for long, and skirt hems began to widen to give a cone shape. In the 1810s, gores began to be used in skirts again, and skirts grew wider in the 1820s. The width of these skirts was sometimes supported by a small bustle. These were not always sufficient, and so extra petticoats were worn to help.
The first 'crinolines' were petticoats starched for extra stiffness, or made out of the new crinoline fabric, and they often had ruffles to support the skirts to the desired width. However, dress fabrics were heavy but not stiff enough to support their own weight, which tended to collapse the petticoats out of shape. Extra rigidity was added to petticoats through rings of cord or braid running around the hem. In the 1830s, women started to wear petticoats with hoops of whalebone or cane around the hem.
In 1856, the cage crinoline was patented in the United States, France and Britain by the American W.S. Thompson. This facilitated the fashionable silhoutte's development from a cone shape to a dome. It was not an entirely original idea; Thompson was probably inspired by the open cage or frame style of farthingales and panniers. The cage crinoline consisted of steel hoops suspended by tapes descending from a band around the wearer’s waist.
The cage crinoline was adopted with enthusiasm: the numerous petticoats, even the stiffened or hooped ones, were heavy, bulky and generally uncomfortable. It was light — it only required one or two petticoats worn over the top to prevent the steel bands appearing as ridges in the skirt — and freed the wearer's legs from tangling petticoats.
Unlike the farthingale and panniers, the crinoline was worn by women of every social class. The wider circulation of magazines and newspapers spread news of the new fashion, also fueling desire for it, and mass production made it affordable.
sounds like one (two?) of them ambiguous type words...
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Cage crinoline. Ah. I've always associated "crinoline" only with stiffened fabric. Cage crinoline is a later development that incorporated the hoops. Thanks, eta. 
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> gores began to be used in skirts again
Al and Tipper invented the hoop skirt??
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